Step into the casa of Milwaukee’s Bartolotta family at Ristorante Bartolotta in the quaint village of Wauwatosa. There, surrounded by walls lined with old and new photos, guests are welcomed to rejuvenate, rejoice, share and comfort thy souls with classic Italian fare using ingredient pairings rooted in Italy’s terroir and tradition.
The tables are dressed with small white candles, white linen cloths, a paper sheet with a signature stamp and short clear vases of fresh flowers. The sun's light reflects all around.
The place is one of my favorites in the city, sharing the chef’s soothing Duck Ragu with my British boss while in town or with friends and family to celebrate a new job, birthday or another life milestone. Honestly though, every now and then I enjoy the dish as an easy take-away, watching Sunday night TV in preparation for the week’s beginning and likely hectic plane catching.
This evening I'm here for my Art and Craft of Food Writing course with Ethel Hammer and Stephen Kleiman. The food industry veterans arranged a set course dining experience with wine pairing where we honed our skills of evaluating and effectively conveying a dining experience through words.
The Insalata Siciliana di Arancia was a delightfully simple salad of oranges, julienne fennel pieces, arugula for color and Nocellara del Belice olives. Garnished with Castillo de Canena award winning olive oil made of picual olives from a Spanish family-owned grove dating to 1780, the mixture was so fresh and clean. The bursts of orange were nestled by the ease of the oil that on its own gives a clear frontal feel on the palate, mellowing and lush. When partnered with the ’09 Insolia Cusumano wine, the flavor of the fennel greatly expanded giving more depth.
Our main course, the Spiedino di Maiale alla Griglia, was a succulent serving of pork tenderloin pieces on a skewer that’d been marinated for tenderness and broasted alle brace, or directly over charcoals, using the fiery embers of the woodfire oven. The rugged flavor of the coal cooked pork was enhanced with a zesty fresh herb sauce of thyme, oregano and aged red wine vinegar, originating in the Palazzo region of Lombardy near Milano.
Placed atop a mixture of fresh mushrooms (yes, it was so good I forgot to take a before picture :-), the vegetables drew out the rustic flavors of the dish while ultra smooth pureed potatoes, light with a hint of nutmeg, softened the entire dish. Instantly I felt the warming sense of home and family, sharing in celebration with new friends. It was paired with a red '08 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Tuscany, but the wine was rather tight and needed some room to air.
Our hometown Italian adventure wrapped us up with a course of Piemontenese sheep and cow's milk robiola covered in a white truffle-infused honey lace. Foiled by a port wine geli and '09 Barbera red, the course had the ability to dispell the stresses of a Monday evening, leaving the night feeling more like a leisurely, sunny summer Sunday.
Chef di Cucina, Miles Borghgraef of Lake Geneva, graced our experience with knowledgeable detail of the ingredients involved in each dish and the reasoning behind their choosing and preparation to presentation. The service staff too was eager and helpful, clearly well-versed in the specifics of Italy's regional cuisines. I enjoyed broadening my horizons at Ristorante Bartolotta where I typically stick with what I love; now I have new techniques to try at home and a fabulous salad to re-create for good weather gatherings.
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