Fab Fabio's in Bologna

When Americans see the word Bologna, many of us are fondly reminded of Oscar Mayer's 1973 commercial featuring a little boy singing: 'My bologna has a first name it's O-S-C-A-R'. And while the city of Bologna in northern Italy is where mortadella, the pre-cursor to modern baloney, originates, the Emilia-Romagna region has plenty more culinary gifts to share.




It was at Ristorante da Fabio where we were able to try a bit, and more, of this prominent region's gastronomic pleasures: prosciutto de Parma, parmasean cheese, ragú bolognese and Sangiovese wine.




Dining at Fabio's place is done differently, starting with the constant presentation of aperitivos of all kinds to be shared; egg soufflé, stuffed tomatoes, liver pâté and ricotta cheese were delivered to our table by a handsome man with striking blue eyes.




Mortadella was prepared into a light paste that was delightful on a simple piece of toast. Ham salad is not my thing. In fact, it mortified me as a kid. You know, it was one of those food items that made my nostrils automatically flare out in denial. It was pink, and smooth, and what is it made of? Mom, no.

But 'mortadella surprise' scares me not anymore; I was going to try everything that came across my plate here. The 'meat fluff' had not a hint of miracle whip, was light and smooth, with only a hint of salt and smoke. It welcomed us in as the chef.




The walls were lined with knick knacks, old wine bottles, cds, cook books and US license plates, three from Wisconsin. As guests arrived they were greeted with a warm embrace and escorted with care to the back room where seats were still available.




Grilled zucchini continued our culinary embrace, the pieces delicate in olive oil and darkened just enough to punch up the taste.




For our main course I headed straight for the classic tagliatelle pasta with Ragú alla Bolognese. Bolognese sauce is famous. It's often seen on menus as far as Africa and Brazil described as spaghetti bolognese. This is the medieval city that gave the world this satisfying dish.

Tagliatelle is an egg pasta that is flat in shape and long. The sauce, or ragú, is started with a soffrito base, typically a mix of carrots, onions and celery sauteéd in olive oil and butter. This is a dish I love to try at well-known restaurants, and I've found that my favorite recipes include a good amount of carrots. A slow cooked pork or combination of meat is added to the mix. A good bolognese sauce is comfort food at its best.




Fabio's Tortellini in Brodo proved to be silky and inviting. The brodo, or broth, is made with various meat parts slowly simmered over a long period of time. Only with such care can a dish be so exquisite yet simple. It is rich like butter and nurtures in the same way, warm and smooth down the throat.




Desserts are served at Fabio in the same way as the starters. Like at the beginning of our meal, our table was once again loaded with dishes to share. We were surrounded by: fresh strawberries, dark chocolate cake, flan and apple torte.




And wow - the absolute highlight of it all - was homemade gelato made especially for our table. The cool creme custard had a real vanilla taste with a touch of anise.
I-N-C-R-E-D-I-B-L-E!




The small slices of schaum torte were sweet and sour when saddled with cool fresh strawberries. And the hot chocolate sauce hardened into a shell when poured atop the frozen ice cream on my plate.




Nestled prominently in the tiny front dining room of four tables, the bar is stocked with fine cognacs, liqueurs and port wines. There are even a few props hanging around for when dinner's conversation needs livening-up.




To accompany the end-of-evening sweets, our server delivered us glasses with a small bucket of ice and a bottle of Sambuca, which paired very well with the homemade gelato. We laughed and remained in awe of the experience we had just had and continued to. Nestled in the Castiglione area of the city, Ristorante da Fabio impressed us, and gave us a dining memory we won't soon forget. Its certainly a place we hope to return to again.

Our laughter continued outside and down the old, winding stone street,'my Bologna has a first name, it's F-A-B-I-O.'




Did I mention that I wasn't able to finish my Bolognese? Amongst close friends I'm known as the 'Leftover Queen'. It can't go to waste - and I needed room for dessert.

Fabio gave me a weird look when I asked to take it with. Look, when in Rome or not, there was no way I was going to leave homemade pasta and sauce behind from the city that invented it if I could take it along with me.

It was eaten late night in Paris two days later - enjoyed again and wasted not. I added some Tabasco too - that's allowed the second time around.




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Best Food 2012 by LifeSauce

Another year has allowed me more remarkable and unique dining experiences. In myriad ways, culinary adventures in Miami, New York, Chicago, Washington DC and New Orleans standout in my mind. Some restaurants are long-standing local favorites that have endured over the years, serving-up goodness to fill bellies and warm hearts, while others are establishments of trained chefs who have earned prestigious accolades. A couple of restaurants in the list tug hard on the pocket strings, but prove to be worth the cash if possible. A handful are easy on the wallet and out of this world—a little something for everyone.

Chicago
Spiaggia Cafe's polpette, or meatballs, are airy and hearty. In a cooking class hosted in the restaurant's ballroom overlooking Lake Michigan, a special few of us had Chef Tony Montuano walk us through preparing meatballs like his grandmother used to. The cafe is a more casual scene than the award-winning Spiaggia known for it's high-end Italian cuisine.








Miami
Yardbird, just off Lincoln Avenue in South Beach, has been praised by The New York Times and GQ for its exquisite Southern cuisine. Bon Appétit magazine listed it as one of the Fifty Best New Restaurants of 2012. Yardbird Executive Chef Jeff McInnis was nominated by the James Beard Foundation for Best Chef, South. Surrounded by historical Art Deco architecture, hipsters and trendsetters, it's easy to enjoy the decadent, wholesome menu items.




The deviled eggs with smoked trout roe are extraordinary, not too salty and a soft texture. The fried chicken on a biscuit sandwich has been, clearly, practiced and made to perfection. After the dozen or so biscuits I tried in the South, the lightness of the middle and easy crust on the outside 'takes the cake', if you will. Typically I'm not one for fried chicken. And of course I've tried a few recipes in my time, so I can tell this: the chicken at Yardbird will make you want to dance out of your seat, or run chicken run, as they say at this flourishing hot spot. The breading is thick around the bird, seasoned right with a touch of spicy punch and moist on the inside. It's served with homemade pepper jam, which I think puts the 'cherry on top' of this quality sandwich giving a Southern belle-like sweetness to the entire dish.












New Orleans
Mother's has been around for all of this Southern city's ups and downs, serving blue and white collar clientele regularly. The Ferdi is fantastic. A little much for me, but a great big sandwich of slow cooked pulled beef and sliced ham make this one palate pleaser. The atmosphere of the place is slow and easy, just like The Big Easy. Be prepared to wait at most times of the day. Get there early for the famous black ham.




Chef John Besh offers an innovative take on a traditional étouffée that simply melted me at his restaurant Lüke in New Orleans, his home town. With a touch of saffron and cream served over pasta and shrimp cooked perfectly, the dish is Su-perb. I haven't tried putting this one together at home yet, but will in 2013.




New York City
Vezzo in Midtown proved to make delicious pizzas, so delicious in fact that I returned in my few short days in Manhattan - yes, even with so many other options around the island. Here's why.




Vezzo has a small individual sized pizza on the menu that is just the right size without having much leftover. There's an organic Malbec on the menu that's $8.00 - a bargain in the concrete jungle (I had a hard time finding a Sauvignon Blanc for under thirteen).




The Caesar salad is simple, clean romaine lettuce and cool creamy dressing, not a lot of anchovy or garlic. Pepperoni at Vezzo is big and crisps nicely in the oven. The spot offers all of my favorite toppings—broccoli, feta, jalapeños and sun-dried tomatoes. I think it just might be my favorite pizza in the world now.












San Diego
Slater's 50/50 has fast become a hit in San Diego and its newest location in Pasadena. Started by a duo of UCSD grads, the signature patty is a combination of ground beef and ground bacon. There's a plethora of toppings to choose from including the house bacon ketchup and over one hundred beers on tap.




Washington DC
Proof in Washington DC came highly recommended by my hosts who explained the charcuterie boards to be exquisite. Again, I tried the deviled eggs here. They were great with the smoked fish. My favorite discovery though ended up being the side dish of broccoli bagna cauda. Bagna cauda is a sauce made with butter and anchovy paste in northern Italy typically used for dipping raw vegetables. Executive Chef Haidar Karoum of Lebonese descent has created a perfect spin on this old traditional dish by tossing the veggie in the sauce with crisped garlic slices.




Best view: Cape Town's Salt in South Africa, an excellent place for a local, crisp Sauvignon Blanc




Experience(s) of the Year: Chicago's Moto and Tru.






I am truly grateful for each experience listed here. Cheers to a wonderful 2012 and a happy and healthy 2013—and more!

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Tru Delight in Chicago

Stepping inside the unobtrusive vestibule of Tru—in the Streeterville neighborhood of Chicago between the lake and Michigan Avenue, north of the river—felt more unassuming and quiet than we had expected. From the entrance we eagerly peered into the connecting room of simple white walls enhanced by art with pops of color that lured us further in to explore. It appeared to be like an art museum's latest contemporary exhibit hall more than it did a four-star fine-dining restaurant. I was wholly intrigued.




The collection of art is impressive boasting a matte royal blue statue from French Nouveau Realism great Yves Klein (Venus Bleue, 1961, pigment on plaster). Klein patented International Klein Blue, this pigment mixed with a special agent that maintains the color's intensity across mediums—canvas, paper, wood, plaster, glass. He believed that monochrome 'represents the idea of absolute unity in perfect serenity' and that this vibrant blue hue, specifically, 'awakens spiritual energy'. Klein is often attributed to being a leader of performance art, for example, painting models in his signature color and having them roll their bodies on canvas to one monotone of music—boom, a new creative outlet was born.




Another piece, a mirror-box lined with red neon tube lights, creates an infinite look to the reflection, as if we could reach our arm through and down a never-ending hallway.



For a moment there was no one around us but the walls and the art.




It was serene, and humbling—and for the emotion it withdrew, demanded acknowledgement and respect. The time gave us an Inception second to respond to our surroundings and wishfully anticipate what might come next in our progressive French dining experience.




The main dining room is simple and elegant, with tall walls white as snow lined with floor length flowing curtains. As the room expanded over the course of our experience, the gorgeous, various shaped wine glasses created a frame around an Andy Warhol piece of Marilyn Monroe (Marilyn reversal series, 1979.1986, synthetic polymer paint and silkscreen on canvas).

The artistry seamlessly continues throughout the Chef's Collection of nine whimsical courses that delight and inspire. Executive chef Anthony Martin has led the kitchen solely at Tru since 2010, working as chef de cuisine previously and earning stripes at Las Vegas resorts Wynn and MGM. Young at thirty years old, he earned the honor of being named Chef of the Year 2010 by the Chicago Tribune.




Martin created 'caviar' with smoked sturgeon made into a mousse by mixing wine, spices and gelatin. When extracted into a syringe, the mousse easily releases into a cold oil bath turning it into tiny pellets that closely resemble luxurious fish eggs frequently shared with chilled vodka in Russia.

The caviar was light and tasty and combined well with the richness of the avocado spread it rested on in a tin jar. Further, the jar was perched on a pile of coarse sea salt. Unlike real caviar, the mousse pellets lacked the burst when we bite-in. You can watch Martin explain his creative process on YouTube. He initially made the video for a Dinner Party earlier in the year.







Elegantly put together in a large, clean white bowl, stacked atop two layers of plain white plates, the golden yellow of the squash soup brightened the table. The soup was creamed with small cubes of al dente squash drizzled with bright hints of alba white truffle. Beside the cup was a burgundy harvest garnish that foiled the leaf shaped Parmesan crackers resting on a stack of white linens. The terroir of the rich mushroom was emboldened with each sip of the Guiberteau Chenin Blanc with zesty citrus notes.




Foi gras was served beautifully seared, surrounded by a ring of round droplets so that from a distance the dish looks almost planetary in a white abyss. Every bite was buttery, flavorful and light.








In 2006 the City of Chicago banned foi gras, which is fattened duck liver enhanced by force feeding the animals. The inclusion of foi on menus has been a point of controversy in the culinary world for some time. Tru and Spiaggia mimicked the delicacy in two different ways shortly after the ban (which has since been lifted) impressing the Tribune's food critic Phil Vettel. Even though the dish was tasty, it will probably be my last time for foi.












The grand finale of Tru's culinary performance was a dessert of vanilla parfait, compressed pineapple and banana. The fruits rested on a square mirror clutched in a small white monkey's hands. The delivery was bold. It was fresh—and we shared a wonderful laugh about it. The finale gave us one final dig into a world of food just as unique as our exhibit-like surroundings.
Tru proved to be a wonderful culinary adventure. Each course was paired with wine from all over the world - California, Greece and France to name a few. It was exciting to try wines with varied terroir that boldened every dish. All together the experience was stretching; it expanded my concept of dining, food, art and performance, surely a Warhol-approved evening.








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Adventure in Southern Fare

My plan as I adventured across the northern hills of The US South was to hit up a couple of restaurants that have been featured on Guy Fieri's Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. I figured it would be a solid basis to tour Southern Fare. In the end Atlanta's Silver Skillet was the only one that was within my routes of travel. Still I experienced a range of dining atmospheres from ultra casual BBQ joints to a James Beard Award winning chef and restaurant in downtown Oxford, Mississippi.




Silver Skillet's famous for its Country Ham. On the show they explain that the meat is hand cut and soaked, bone-in, overnight in a combination of soy sauce, brown sugar, paprika, and the secret ingredient Coca-Cola; Atlanta is the hometown of this globally famous soft drink brand.




My server warned that the meat is salty. No problem, that's what the water is for. Red Eye Gravy is served aside the meat, which is a mixture of the excess marinade juices and hot, fresh coffee. From a selection of sides I chose macaroni & cheese and fried okra.




The ham was salty indeed much like a cured prosciutto, but not too much so. It was moist and tender inside and seared nicely on the outside. The flavor was certainly unique with the Asian soy sauce complementing the sweet of the cola well like the look of a rough leather jacket layered over a feminine floral dress. And to be honest, the gravy didn't taste much different with the addition of the coffee. Simply, it gave each bite a bit more juice to envelop my tongue.




There's nothing pretentious about the place. At 1:30 on Thursday it was nearly full and you seat yourself. I picked the spot near the window to take-in the afternoon sun over lunch. Each table is stocked with every supply we might need to enhance the meal, including extra napkins, a vinegar pepper sauce that I put on the okra and hot sauce - yea man. There's free WiFi too. Major bonus points for this.




The okra wasn't prepared exactly as I expected. In North Carolina's furniture country I had it 'fried', but really sautéed in butter, and it was phenomenal. Without the pepper sauce they were merely crunchy tidbits. In a blind test I wouldn't have been able to tell the difference between the vegetable and Rocky Mountain Oysters.




Now the macaroni & cheese was perfect. It had just the right amount of cream and cheese and could take Kraft's Velveeta any day in a contest. As I do, I lathered it in hot sauce.








Home cooked food in a super comfortable setting is what this Atlanta hot spot is all about. If you forgot your reading glasses, there's even a basket full to borrow from, although I think the locals know precisely what they're ordering when the come in. No menu needed. The website Flavortown USA serves as a great guide for finding restaurants visited on Fieri's show when you're moving about the country, hungry and ready to be tantalized by local fare.




Fried Green Tomatoes are often considered a Southern delicacy. Each family and restaurant has its own recipe that's been cherished and touted over the years. At the Moonlight Bistro in Mentone, Alabama near Ft. Payne, the dish can be served as an appetizer to share or as a sandwich with mayonnaise, lettuce and bacon.








The breading remained crunchy wrapped around the hot and juicy fruit. And while the bun was soggy by the time I was finished, the sandwich was very good overall, and the side of broccoli seasoned just right. In fact the dish was recently listed on '100 dishes to eat in Alabama before you die'.








The cafe is housed in a small log cabin with a gorgeous fireplace and welcoming front patio. The atmosphere is severely charming.




In flying through the rolling, colorful hills of northern Alabama - more beautiful than I had expected - I needed a spot for a break and replenishment, and frankly, while Subway would have been easiest, I hadn't come all this way for something so ubiquitous.




Then I spotted Smith's in a flash cruising at 80mph down the curvy country highway. Its parking lot was full of cars - always a good sign. After passing it by, I quickly found a place to turn around and went to check it out.




No frills here. Much like other BBQ spots the paper towel sat on a roll at the end of the table lined with condiments.




Unfortunately Smith's didn't have brisket on the menu, which is always my favorite choice, so I tried the chicken and broccoli casserole that was the Friday lunch special. With a side of corn and collared greens, the meal was delivered piping hot and suited my needs.




To my amazement while visiting a friend at Ole Miss, I was told that the best late night food is found at the local gas stations. You've got to be kidding me! But he wasn't. Oof. Ramen noodles is as 'basic' as I'll get and that's because the taste is nostalgic for me and it doesn't involve mystery meat.




Well, nonetheless, when in Oxford...at the corner station just around from the square, we ordered all sorts of fried things - chicken, pizza sticks, burritos. The worker filled a white paper lunch bag with the greasy bits that I have to admit smelled delightful.




The chicken was very, very good. Crispy and flavorful on the outside, juicy on the inside. It didn't take long for us to whoolf the pieces down. The burrito and pizza sticks were nothing more than gas station prepared hot pockets, but they did the trick. And they were certainly more appealing than the two for $1 'roller' dogs at Milwaukee stations.








On the wholly opposite end of the food spectrum, we checked out the scene at Oxford's most fancy and famed restaurant City Grocery that sits right in the town center surrounded by quaint shops and various pieces of local history. Open for twenty years, City Grocery has been featured in the likes of Food & Wine, Bon Appetít and Wine Spectator. In 2009 chef John Currence was awarded the James Beard Award for Best Chef South and 'The Big Bad Chef', originally from New Orleans continues to innovate using new ingredients every six weeks.




The menu was still on late summer. We started with the seasonal heirloom tomato salad tossed in fresh herbs and balsamic syrup, dressed easy with cracked telicherry peppercorns and grey celtic sea salt.




The seared scallops 'Minestroni' proved to be a wise choice. The seafood was served atop a succotash of sweet corn, butterbeans, tomato and bacon in lobster broth with chili oil. Cooked until just barely opaque in the center, the scallops meshed well with the al dente vegetables.
The wine list changes weekly offering a varied selection of great options, however the pricing is premium for basics like Stag's Leap. We chose the Joel Gott 815 Cabernet Sauvignon. It was light yet full flavored with a deep blackberry taste, and nice value.




Dixieland had plenty to offer my taste buds. From casual to internationally renowned, the barbecue and biscuits, the deep fried chicken and creative seafood found below the Mason Dixie welcomed this red blooded Yankee with open arms. Maybe The South will rise again fiercely armed with culinary perfection, local hospitality and comforting recipes.
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