Arriving in an overcast New York City at 9:00am after catching a 6:00am flight out of Milwaukee could easily keep one's juice level at a minimum for the day ahead. However, when adventure awaits, it's hard to listen to aching retinas and under-rested muscles. All I needed was a cab, umbrella, an espresso, my camera and some solid walking shoes to guide the way -- and I was off!
Clinton Street Baking Co. on the Lower East side of Manhattan Island is listed among many leading travel and food magazines as one of the best breakfast spots around, known acutely for its homemade biscuits and blueberry pancakes. The write-ups warned of a likely waiting time, so it didn't surprise me when locals and tourists were pouring out of the red entry way to this narrow spot just south of E Houston at 10:30am on a weekday. 'Forty-five minutes,' said the small framed dirty blonde-haired waitress with a dainty gold chain around her neck.
'Okay,' I thought. 'No problem. I can just bum about for a bit.' Except that I had writing to complete, interview questions to draw up and prep work to do for the weeks ahead.
While contemplating my next move, Pause Cafe, the tiny Moroccan inspired coffee house directly across Clinton caught my eye. Coffee first. My latte was very good and the antique quarter circle bench in the tight entryway was just the spot to sip into a decision while taking in the city air and its inhabitants.
This street construction worker absolutely humored me and confirmed for me both where I was, and that Hollywood stereotypes depicting such locals are spot on. Holding the 'slow' sign for drivers to obey, many behind the wheel did as they pleased and the pedestrians too. He goes, 'Eh! Whata ya doin? You got special privileges or somethin I don't know about?'
Yea, I'm in New York baby. *big smile*
By the time I finished I had decided to walk across the island, which is only 2.3 miles at its widest around 14th Street, to Soho where I discovered the independent McNally Jackson bookstore on Prince Street. By this time the rain had picked up nicely and I was ready to situate in a nook and get some things completed.
The bookstore is not large by any means, especially when compared to the now extinct Borders chain, yet it still boasts two floors and its own fantastic cafe. The front windows completely unfold, so while enjoying the aroma of printed pages and freshly ground coffee beans, it felt as if we were still a part of the bustling street, small gusts of wind engulfing us. The smell of rain on asphalt winning over once in a while. The patter of rain drops forming puddles along the curb set a working pace.
A wooden bench carried along the wall of the cafe where patrons could pull down a hinged top that served like an arm chair of some older classroom desks of yore. It was full of people reading paperbacks and e-versions, some studying alone or in a group, others piling through a stack they'd pulled from the shelves that are, funny enough, organized by country. The only tough part about the place is the lone restroom.
Prince Street started to get more crowded. I took this as a signal that it was the end of another work day. Pleased with my accomplishments, I gathered my things to take on the gray sky, the falling water droplets, the well formed streams rushing along the curbs and the tourists and locals moving wildly around during this city of 8 million's rush hour.
After discovering a number of cute boutiques in the neighborhood, most notably Love Adorned filled with great jewlery pieces by various designers, fun little ceramics, handmade scarves and other odds and ends, (check the adorable ceramic sardine can and blooming air plant I picked up), my clothing was rather wet and I was ready for a rest before making the long trek north to Midtown.
That's when I stumbled into the LEED gold certified Crosby Street Hotel set on a quieter cobblestone street in Soho. Immediately the lobby charmed me. It's filled with lovely, bright paintings and tasteful 3D art, some of dogs, some abstract and charming furniture. The drawing room to the right is absolutely superb, set with magenta velvet couches and two fireplaces with paintings of Jack Russell terriers hanging above the mantles.
From there guests can exit into the exquisitely adorned terrace garden, a calm haven from the buzz of the wet chaos out front. With large metal fixtures draping one side, looking like a swarm of fireflies when lit, large wooden ornaments, candles, unique sculptures, tables and benches, I'd nearly forgotten about the rain. It is such a peaceful diamond and a sanctuary I returned to later in the week for a glass of wine and serene reading in the shade from the sun. One of these days I'll be an actual hotel guest rather than a visitor breezing through.
It was time for me to figure out a dining spot, either something on my way to my hotel on 29th or near it. There was no sign that the rain was going to let up. I did figure something out and found many other great restaurants too. And while I didn't make it back to the bakery, I still have the spot dog eared for next time.
I'll share my NYC foodie finds in more detail soon.
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